Mid Intensity Aerobic Capacity
What is it?
How should I program it?
How should this type of training feel?
During these exercises you are trying to maintain a moderate level of pump. If you are having to shake out once every 15-20 moves or so then that is about right. You do not want to be consistently in a very pumped state.
Session Length: 1hr
Facility: Autobelay, Leading, Toprope, Circuit Board,
The aim here is to climb a hard route until you are pumped and then find a hold to recover. Try to a hard route quickly for 10-20 moves at a time before stopping, shake out and rest on a hold until you are back to a low level of pump. Try to rest on the same route you are climbing so plan where you think the rests will be, if this is not possible then you can use other holds. Continue this pattern while climbing down (you will need an easier route).
Format: Climb for 8 minutes, Rest for 8 minutes. Repeat 4 times.
Session Length: 35 mins
Facility: Bouldering Wall
Pick 4 different sections of a bouldering wall where you could climb comfortably for around 6 minutes. During the exercise you can try to work to a consistent difficulty or have a cycle of hard and easy moves such as climbing up a medium boulder and down an easy one.
Format: Climb for 3 minutes, rest for 30 seconds and change area. Do this 4 times then take a 5 minute break and repeat.
Aero Cap 4x4s
Session Length: 2hr
Facility: Lead Wall
You will climb 4 sets of 4 routes, using the time that your partner climbs as rest between your sets. You want to get a bit pumped and then control it for the rest of the set. Try going for your onsight grade or just below as your first route and then dropping down 4-6 grades for the subsequent routes. How close you work to your onsight grade depends on your fitness, if you are very pumped after your first route then make the next one easier until you are under control again. Having to shake out 2-3 times per route is normally about right.
Format: Lead 1 hard and 3 easy routes with minimum rest in between each one, get back on the wall and shake out as your partner pulls the rope and puts you back on belay. Belay your partner and repeat, you will complete 4 sets in total.
Getting Extra Value
Use the time to focus on your climbing technique. Practice twisting, rockovers, foot placement, drop knees or any other movement can be of benefit to even already good climbers. Remember you are always building habits so make sure you are building good ones. Try to regulate how hard you are gripping - relax as much as possible.
Stop for a moment when you are on a really good hold and plan the next section of the route. Think about your pacing, experiment with climbing quickly or slowly through different sections .
Extra Physical Outcome
When climbing down it can be beneficial for many climbers to work on their shoulder engagement. Try to fully straighten your arm while keeping your shoulder engaged.