Aerobic Power +Distance
What is it?
Aerobic Power is your specific route climbing fitness, usually associated with sport climbing. It is your ability to climb on moderate to hard moves for the entire duration of a climb. If you have a good aerobic power you will be able to deal with a high level of muscle acidity and so keep pulling hard even when pumped.
The following sessions are at the lower intensity and longer end of aerobic power training, you will be typically climbing 1.5/2 times your typical route length to increase the amount of time you can keep climbing while pumped.
How should I program it?
Aerobic Power training should be done in the weeks prior to when you want to achieve your goal. Sessions tend to be very hard as they balance intensity and volume, you can often do it second day on after your strength or power training, but you will not be able to do harder training after.
How should this type of training feel?
You will be getting very pumped during these sessions.
Session Length: 55m-1.5hr
Facility: Autobelay, Traverse, Circuit Board, Climbing Wall
Choose 5 routes that are 1-2 grades below your target route grade. If possible they should be around the same length as your target route and of a fairly consistent difficulty.
Format: Climb a route, lower down and immediately try to climb it again. Get back on the wall while the rope is being pulled down. Climb until you complete the 2nd rep or fall. Rest 10 minutes then move on to the next route.
Failure on 2/5 of the sets is about right, be careful pushing to failure too early in the session as this can affect subsequent sets.
Getting Extra Value
Think about your breathing, try to keep it in time with your movements when possible
Plan your pacing on different parts of the climb, think about when you need to climb fast and when you need to slow it down and be precise. Are there any rests?
Climbing when pumped can be a mental challange, try to embrace this and try and develop your toughness and “try hard” caperbilities. Do not be too quick to retreat onto topropes.
Extra Physical Outcome
Incorporate climbs that work your physical weaknesses.