Aerobic Power +Intensity
What is it?
Aerobic Power is your specific route climbing fitness, usually associated with sport climbing. It is your ability to climb on moderate to hard moves for the entire duration of a climb. If you have a good aerobic power you will be able to deal with a high level of muscle acidity and so keep pulling hard even when pumped.
The following sessions are at a higher intensity to your goal, but utilise short rests to help you maintain strength through the exercise.
How should I program it?
Aerobic Power training should be done in the weeks prior to when you want to achieve your goal. Sessions tend to be very hard as they balance intensity and volume, you can often do it second day on after your strength or power training, but you will not be able to do harder training after.
How should this type of training feel?
You will be getting very pumped during these sessions.
Session Length: 45 minutes
Facility: Bouldering Wall
Choose 4 boulder problems that are around 4 grades below your max (this is just an estimate so experiment with the difficulty). Climbing all these boulders consecutively should be around your target route grade. All boulders should be physical but they do not all have to be super steep, you can experiment with slightly overhanging boulders at the end and see if you can maintain tension and keep it together.
Format: Climb all four boulders consecutively with as little rest as possible. Rest for 10 mins then repeat, complete 4 sets in total.
Failure on 2/4 of the sets due to getting pumped is acceptable. If you are falling due to crux moves then change your boulder slightly or choose another. If you are training for longer routes do the same session with 6 boulders.
Getting Extra Value
Focus on your technique when you are pumped, don’t let your climbing go to pieces!
Use your rest time to route read and visualise all sections, use this to cut down on mistakes when you are climbing.
Try to feel for the limit of what you can do, often your perception of this limit is below your actual caperbilities.
Extra Physical Outcome
Incorporate climbs that work your physical weaknesses.