Strength Bouldering

What is it?

Bouldering should be the primary strength training for all climbers practicing all disciplines of climbing. It does not get more sport specific than this! These sessions balance intensity with volume to give you the best possible adaption.

How should I program it?

Typically, you need to be pretty fresh to get the most out of your bouldering sessions but some of the session types are more forgiving than others. The worked boulder sessions for instance focus on maximum difficulty so you need to be able to work at your top level, however sessions like the pyramid focus more on volume.


Training Sessions


Worked Boulder

Session Length: 60 minutes

Facility: Bouldering Wall

Find 3 boulder problems that are at your limit. You want to be able to make links rather than just being able to do individual moves and have the potential to complete the problems in a session.

Format: Try each one for 20 minutes with 5 minutes rest in between. If you complete a problem then rest and move on to the next.

The perfect level is to complete some of the problems but not all. Try to choose different problems each session and do not re use problems you have completed. If you want more variety or are climbing shorter problems then you can choose 4 and just work them for 15 minutes.


Boulder Pyramid

Session Length: 70 minutes

Facility: Bouldering Wall

Find 8 boulder problems from moderately hard to very hard, try thinking about the hardest problem you can do in a session as the top end. Order the problems from easy to hard (for you), they should all be problems that you have done before.

Format: Climb the problems from easy to hard and back with 3 minutes rest in between each problem. It is acceptable to fall on the two hardest problems. If you fall you can have a maximum of three goes.

Adjust the level as you get stronger. It can also be good to work a really hard problem for 15 min in the middle of your pyramid.


Getting Extra Value

Improving Technique

Try to climb some problems that are not your style. If you generally climb on steep walls then incorporate some vertical or slabby climbing into your warm ups. Focus on finding the most efficient way to do each move on your boulders (this often does not mean climbing staticly).

Improving Mental Approach

Use your rest time to plan and visualise the boulders. Try to establish a routine before climbing to encourage focus.



Coaching and Training at the Foundry


More Training Sessions

Aerobic Capacity (Endurance)


Strength & Power


Anaerobic Capacity (Short Strength Endurance)


Aerobic Power (Long Strength Endurance)




Flexibility and Mobility