Team Foundry

We believe that strength and conditioning is the best way stay healthy long term in a physically demanding sport. All of the training we implement has a specific goal that will add value to the climbers ability and/or health.

Please contact your coach if you want any more information about training in Team Foundry.

Fingerboard

Fingerboards are used to train isometric finger strength either by hanging (yielding isometric) or pulling (overcoming isometric).

In Team Foundry we use the fingerboards for warming up different grip positions at a low intensity so that the climbers have loaded each position statically before they load it dynamically by climbing. We also perform more intense pulls to increase recruitment. The aim is to familiarise a warm up that can be used at competitions and outdoors with the use of a portable fingerboard.

For some climbers we also use the fingerboards to increase strength in specific grip positions when there is a specific reason to do so. For example we might seek to strengthen a Half Crimp position to reduce the reliance on Full Crimp or Drag positions. This may be done by reducing or adding weight to bodyweight. The aim of this intervention would be to create safer long term habits in the climber.

Campus Board

The campus board is a ladder of different rungs that allow you to train pulling movements both with feet on and feet off.

In Team Foundry we use large open hand holds to train power and coordination in specific climbers and for limited periods of time. We do not train dynamic movement on crimps with under 18s unless we have evidence that their growth plates have fused as it it possible to cause damage.

Bodyweight Exercises

We use equipment such as the Pull up bar, TRX, and Rings to train strength and stability in our climbers. The aim of these exercises is to get stronger in sport specific movements, antagonistic movements, ant train core and stabilising muscles. Weight may be added to or subtracted from bodyweight in order to achieve an appropriate loading.

Exercise may include but are not limited to:

• Pull Ups, Chin Ups etc.

• TRX exercises such as W Row, YIT Row, Underhand Row, Chest Press, Forward Tension.

• Handstands, Planks, Press Ups, Crunches, Ab Rollouts.

Weight Training

Weights are an effective way of appropriately loading resistance training. We carefully select the exercises that we use to maintain safety and give the climbers the most benefit. We often perform strength based exercises using kettlebells such as Swings and Turkish Get Ups, focusing on control and muscle activation. We may also use lighter weights to work on smaller muscle groups and posture.

Yoga

We use a strength and mobility based yoga routine that has been designed to compliment climbing movements. The focus is to increase strength and stability through the pelvis and core, and then increasing mobility in the hips and shoulders.

Planning S&C for Individual Climbers

In a half hour strength and conditioning slot each climber has time to complete two types of training. Which training the climbers preform is decided by frequent assessments of their relative strengths, with the exercises then being levelled to them specifically. They may have an additional training to complete in their own time.

• Bar work, Pull ups, etc for general upper body strength.

• TRX or Rings exercises for full body stability and strength in challenging positions.

• Kettlebell and free weight exercises for full body strength.

• Fingerboarding to correct grip position imbalances and to create safe habits.

• Campus boarding on large rungs to develop power and coordination.

• Yoga for core strength, pelvis stability, and mobility.